Sewing Patterns / DIY / Tutorials / By Hand Style
With just a little practice, a rolled hem can give the neatest and most professional of finishes in the shortest time. Especially useful for hemming circle skirts, and especially convenient at the end of a long project when all that’s left is the hem and you really just want to get it done now and there’s no way you can be bothered to blindstitch by hand but you still want a perfect finish…! Quick and slick.
You will need:
Top tip #1: Rolled hems work best on light-medium weight woven fabrics such as cotton, voile, silks, crepe, twill, wool suiting etc. Rolled hems can also be used on knits, just be sure to use a wider stitch and be careful not to let the fabric stretch too much as it is fed through the scroll on the rolled hem foot.
Top tip #2: Avoid using a rolled hem on necklines and armholes – the nature of the rolled hem creates a subtle wave to the fabric which although pretty on the hem of a skirt, would only make for a misshapen finish to necklines and armholes.
Using the width of your rolled hem foot as a guide, finger press the starting point of your hem in twice by about 5mm.
Using your sewing machine as normal (ie ignoring the scroll on your rolled hem foot), stitch for a cm or 2 to anchor down the starting point of your hem. Leave the needle securely down in the fabric before moving on to Step 2.
Use a pair of tweezers, or a tailors awl (or anything sharp and poky really) to ease the hem edge of your fabric into the scroll of the rolled hem foot. This part can be pretty fiddly but it’s important to get it right so that as you feed it through the hem gets turned neatly in on itself.
Stitch the hem slowly, using your fingers to ease and guide the fabric through the scroll.
And there you have it! A perfectly neat and dinky hem, done in less time than it takes to fold, press and stitch a regular hem! This technique does require a little practice, mainly just to get the hang of feeding the fabric through the scroll, so we definitely recommend you have a go on some scrap fabric before hemming your actual garment!